Oh, the perennial holiday dilemma! You set off with grand ambitions of being a productive, travel-blogging machine, but then your inner hedonist (mine’s named “Fifi the Frivolous”) takes over, and suddenly, the only thing you’re documenting is the precise indentation your head makes on a pillow.
After a monumental battle of wills (and a good amount of self-bribing with the promise of more anchovies), I finally wrestled open my laptop to spill the beans on my recent adventures!
First up, I abandoned the charming confines of Cahors for a dash across the French border into the sun-drenched Catalan country. My destination? A scorching weekend in L’Escala, nestled on the Costa Brava.
This little slice of heaven, tucked between the Gulf de Roses and Cala Montgó, is where I planned to engage in some serious anchovy gorging, accompanied by “pan de cristal” (fancy bread, basically) generously slathered with garlic and crushed tomato. And if I were feeling extra fancy (which, let’s be honest, I usually am on holiday), a fine slice of “Jamon” would join the party. My doctor has already pre-emptively prescribed a year’s supply of statins.
L’Escala is truly a gem for a quick getaway from France. It’s got everything you could wish for, depending on your mood. Want to be a blissful beach bum? Sandy shores and a refreshing sea are perfect for whiling away a few hours. Feeling adventurous? Rent a boat and discover all the hidden coves – just try not to reenact any dramatic shipwreck scenes. The town also boasts markets, shops, and restaurants galore.
I was incredibly lucky to stay with my family in a private house with a pool, which was an absolute godsend. As a gentleman of limited follicular endowment, the scorching heat was taking its toll, and my head was starting to resemble a particularly rosy, overcooked bowling ball. The pool saved me from what could have been a very crispy weekend.
I spent a glorious three days soaking up well-deserved family time, rest, sunshine, and, of course, incredible food.
With our own private aquatic oasis, we didn’t venture out to eat as much as we probably should have (my stomach, however, was in full agreement with staying by the pool). But there were two spots that absolutely stole the show. One was Caravella, a place with an enormous selection of Spanish and Catalan tapas, starters, and mains. Whatever you do, do not miss their Crepe Suzette. It’s done the old-fashioned way – properly flambéed on a stand with generous amounts of butter, sugar, and orange liqueur. It’s basically a flipping heart attack for two, but oh, what a delicious way to go!
My absolute favourite, though, was the relatively new kid on the block, Rok (you can check them out at https://www.rokrestaurant.es/). The view over the Bay of Roses is simply fabulous, and the food is fantastic – innovative without being fussy or pretentious. The staff and owner are incredibly welcoming, making you feel right at home. It’s a definite go! I was so utterly engrossed in the fantastic company and even more fantastic food that I completely forgot to take any pictures. I guess I was just living in the moment, which is probably a healthier habit than documenting every bite for Instagram.
Honestly, I would have happily stayed a few more days, basking in the sunshine and pretending my biggest worry was choosing between another anchovy or a different anchovy. But alas, duty called, and I had to make my way back to Cahors, pack up my “elephant suitcase” (a truly accurate description, as it seems to expand to the size of a small pachyderm after just a few days), and journey to Sarlat-la-Canéda in the Dordogne, Périgord Noir. I was optimistically hoping it would be slightly cooler there. Oh, how wrong I was! France, it seems, is currently basking under a roasting sun, turning me into a human-sized prune.
I’m staying not far from Sarlat’s medieval, narrow streets. With only a few hours to spare, I squeezed in a quick morning tour of the town, followed by a dip in the Piscine Municipal. The pool has rather odd opening hours (it’s like they’re playing a game of “guess when we’re open”), but it probably boasts the cheapest entrance fee in all of France. After my swim, it was off for a bike ride along the “Voie-Verte,” with the Dordogne river close enough for some tempting wild swimming.
I rented an electric bike from Liberty Cycle in Sarlat, right where the “Voie-Verte” begins. The start of the path is an absolute breeze – a well-maintained cycling track, perfect for all skill levels, shaded by tall trees on both sides. It felt like cycling through a secret, verdant tunnel.
About eight kilometres outside Sarlat, I stopped at “Les Jardins d’Eau” by Carsac-Aillac. These beautiful water gardens, created in 1999, overlook the Dordogne banks and boast a huge and rare collection of aquatic plants on what was originally an old Gallo-Roman site. Leaving the gardens, I decided to go slightly off course and head towards Rouffilhac, about 17 km away. The route was lovely with minimal car traffic, though I did have to keep an eye out for fallen trees thanks to the previous night’s storm. All that pedalling worked up quite an appetite, and I decided to grab some lunch along the way. Google Maps showed a few auberge restaurants open, but unfortunately, quite a few were closed with no power, again, thanks to the storm. My stomach began to grumble louder than the fallen trees.
Making my way back to Sarlat with a very noisy stomach, I thankfully stumbled upon a hotel restaurant near Groléjac, “Brasserie Philippe.” To my immense relief, the kitchen was still open! I opted for the “Menu du Jour,” starting with a delightful Burrata salad, followed by salmon with lemon Cappelletti. All of this was very nicely washed down with a chilled glass of rosé wine. Being in the South of France and utterly parched, rosé is truly the only satisfying colour, wouldn’t you agree? It’s like liquid sunshine.
After that incredibly gratifying meal, I decided against a daring plunge in the Dordogne and instead made my way back to Sarlat, about an hour’s cycle away. I opted for a cheeky afternoon snooze, feeling very content with the bike ride and how the day had unfolded. Sometimes, the best adventure is a good nap.
And now, after my well-deserved snooze, I’ll be packing that elephant suitcase once more and heading off to Bordeaux! I’m super excited about it, as I’ve never been before. Wish me luck with my packing – I swear that flipping suitcase weighs more than I do at this point!
