The end of 2025 was the time I decided to ditch the UK’s perpetually grey skies for some fabulous Spanish city-hopping. Earlier in the summer, I was lucky enough to enjoy a trip to L’Escala, Costa Brava—because honestly, if there’s sea, I’m happy. More recently, a brilliant excuse presented itself: a good friend decided to escape London, and I took the opportunity to spend a week visiting her in her new city of choice, Salamanca, Castile and Leon.
Salamanca is surprisingly easy to reach from London, though it involves a two-part adventure. First, a flight to Madrid, then a swift one-hour and 30-minute train journey. A quick pro-tip: While the buses are cheaper, they take much longer. If you opt for the train, double-check the connection time from Madrid airport to the train station. The station is on the opposite side of Madrid, so the connection can take a surprising amount of time. You don’t want to miss your train because you underestimated the Madrid sprawl!
The train journey itself was a treat, taking me through those quintessential Spanish landscapes: rocky terrain and vast, sun-baked plateaus.
As I arrived in Salamanca, I was instantly struck by my sheer luck: the sky was a perfect, blinding blue. As a Londoner, I desperately needed the change from ‘fifty shades of grey’ to ‘full-on UV.’ I felt myself instantly recharging.
I decided to walk from the train station to my rented accommodation, strategically attempting a scenic route. At the 46th largest city in Spain, Salamanca is wonderfully walkable, and I highly recommend doing so. My temporary home was a small flat on the south side of town, conveniently located near a swimming pool. I should mention: if I don’t go swimming at least twice a week, I go completely mental. It’s a non-negotiable.
The walk began with typical Spanish city streets, but as you approach the centre, things get wonderfully interesting. Suddenly, you are surrounded by impressive sandstone architecture—the colour of butterscotch in the sunlight—cobblestone streets, and long, pedestrian shopping avenues.
The climax of the walk is undoubtedly the Plaza Mayor. You will literally stop and marvel at this square. It’s a masterpiece of traditional Baroque style, framed by arches now filled with cafes, restaurants, and shops. It’s a brilliant public square, perfect for people-watching while sipping a coffee on one of the many terrace cafes.
After a necessary pause at the Plaza Mayor (a place I would return to often just to observe humanity), I continued past the numerous university buildings, the awe-inspiring New Cathedral, and finally crossed the Roman Bridge to find my flat.
I’d wholeheartedly recommend spending a few days in Salamanca. There’s so much to see, endless walking to be done, and, crucially, a lot of excellent food to eat.
Here are a few of my favourite spots in Salamanca, presented in no particular order. (I’m sure I’ve forgotten some other gems—blame the chilled Spanish red wine!)
The Tapas Maestro: Taberna de Dionisos
This traditional, bustling tapas bar—one of Salamanca’s oldest and popular with locals—was the ideal starting point for my culinary exploration. It offers a slightly overwhelming but excellent array of tapas and wine by the glass. My friend and I chose a selection of mixed plates, which we enjoyed with local red wine. I particularly appreciated their extensive wine list and the local custom of serving all reds slightly chilled—a refreshing change from the near-boiling temperatures often found in UK restaurants.
Post-Tapas Recovery: Caledonia Coffee
After you’ve done your due diligence, indulging in enough tapas and meat to feed a small army, this spot is perfect for breakfast or brunch. They offer a fantastic selection: bagels, eggs Florentine, cereal bowls, smoothies, and, naturally, truly wonderful coffee. The staff are superb—lovely, welcoming, and clearly deserve high praise. Highly recommended for when you need a gentle start to the day.
A Modern Twist: Hafu
Japanese-influenced food and some great cocktails. An excellent palate cleanser after too much jamón.
The Culture Hit: Casa Lis: Art Nouveau & Art Deco Museum
A genuine must-see for anyone who appreciates Art Nouveau and Art Deco. The museum houses an extensive and impressive collection of over 2,000 items, including glasswork, statues, bronze pieces, porcelain, furniture, and paintings by all the great names of the period.
A word of warning: One room is dedicated entirely to dolls. It is somewhat unsettling. Go prepared—unless you’re secretly hoping for a Chucky-style adventure. Photography and videography are strictly prohibited throughout the museum. Their on-site café, particularly during the spring or summer, is a delightful spot for a break.
The Scenic Crossing: The Roman Bridge
This pedestrian bridge is a fantastic photo opportunity, offering a stellar view of the city centre. It is especially magical in the evening when the city lights cast a golden glow. Since my accommodation was on the opposite bank, I found myself crossing this fabulous old structure constantly. I basically became a Roman commuter.
Architectural Wonders: Salamanca’s New and Old Cathedrals
A visit here is mandatory. They sit right next to each other, offering a fascinating contrast.
- The Old Cathedral is simple and austere, a study in Romanesque design.
- The New Cathedral, though begun in the early Renaissance, is a beautiful mash-up of Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance styles.
Make sure to climb the bell tower! You get fantastic, varied views of the cathedral complex itself and a superb panorama of the entire city. Definitely worth the stair climb (consider it your penance for all the tapas).
Salamanca was a wonderfully enriching experience, and I’m already eagerly anticipating a return visit. The city hosts numerous festivals throughout the year, which would offer a fantastic opportunity to see this beautiful place from a completely fresh, likely very festive, perspective. Any excuse to drag my friend back to Hafu for more of their legendary cocktails is a great one.
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